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Thassa and Athreos are definitely #1 and #2 respectively.

You should add that in order to be awarded an insurance claim by USPS you will need the original receipt for the purchase of the insurance. Simply purchasing it isn't enough.

You're not the only one. I feel your pain.

bump

Inventory management?

Updated OP.

Whoops, HikingStick beat me to it!

I read a good drafting strategy somewhere a while back that has really helped my drafting skills. It's called BREAD.
B = Bombs
R = Removal
E = Efficient spells / Evasion
A = Aggro
D = Dregs / Duds

1) Bombs win you the game by themselves. Heliod looks like a bomb and is a very good card, but he won't win you the game by himself. Stormbreath Dragon wins you the game by himself. Planeswalkers usually can win you the game by themselves. Kraken of the Straits, Prescient Chimera, and Sphinx's Disciple would have fit this role for you.

2) Because draft is generally very creature-centric, removal is almost as important as bombs. Being able to remove their bomb is extremely important.

3) Evasion wins you games. Having a single flier on the board when the other person doesn't often times will win you the game. (see Kraken of the Straits, Prescient Chimera, and Sphinx's Disciple) Efficient spells are the other side of "E." The Ordeal cycle is a perfect example of efficient spells. Take Ordeal of Heliod, if you stick it on a flier it basically reads "1W: put 2 +1/+1 counters on target creature and gain 10 life." That is absolutely full of value.

4) As previously mentioned, draft is usually very creature-centric. Creatures are usually drafted very high and as such you should be doing the same, which it looks like you did. Having a good mana curve is part of this, which it looks like you did as well. Going T1 creature, T2 creature, T3 creature can be game winning against some decks.

5) Dregs are the cards that are either unplayable in draft or unplayable in your deck.

One other thing to keep in mind when drafting is the cards that are good or even integral for decks OTHER than the one you're planning on playing and taking those cards so that other drafters can't use them. Most people call this "hate drafting." I personally hate hate hate hate playing against control so when I get a pack that doesn't have anything I particularly need then I will usually grab a counterspell, removal, or any other card that would be good in someone else's deck or that I just don't want to play against.

Here are a couple guides that say pretty much everything I just said, but in different words if you feel like doing some more reading:
Gathering Magic
StarCityGames

Hope this helps!

Prices are pretty firm. They're already quite a bit lower than you can get them anywhere else.

I have a Nykthos and a couple other smaller cards from your list. Interested in your Obzedat.

Suggestion for Sebi and the rest of the Deckbox team: Add the ability for sellers to set a minimum value for purchases. Or set a global minimum purchase amount like TCGplayer does. At the top of my profile I clearly state that I will not do sales for under $10 simply because it is not worth the shipping cost.

For example: I just received an order for $1.30. Deckbox + Paypal fees come to about 43c + 70c shipping (49c + 21c non-machinable) nets me a whopping 17c profit. If this is what I have to look forward to then I have no reason to list any cards worth less than $10. If I do that, and I believe other sellers would as well, then DB will never get pricing information for the lower value cards.

I know this is probably quite low on the priority list, but I do think it is a very big problem that needs to be addressed.